The best tips for Istria, Croatia’s most beautiful peninsula

Crystal-clear sea, secluded bays, picturesque harbor towns and romantic mountain villages, plus fine wines and perhaps the best olive oil in the world: Istria, Croatia’s northernmost peninsula, is immediately enchanting.

When you get out of the car on the Istrian coast, you notice it immediately: this intense scent that catches you and enchants you right away. It smells of pine trees, salty sea water and grilled fish, and you know immediately: In Istria you have arrived at one of the most beautiful spots in Europe.

Idyllic harbor towns with Venetian architecture line the coast, with numerous bays, peninsulas and islands in between, and the hinterland awaits with endless olive groves, striking mountain villages and picturesque wineries. Tourism has experienced an enormous boom here and shed its former cheap image. In the meantime, people are focusing on gentle, environmentally friendly quality tourism – and Istria has become a trend destination.

The good accessibility

It’s only about a six-hour drive from Munich to Istria, and only four from Salzburg. The fastest way to get to the peninsula is by plane: there are flights to three airports from several German cities in summer: Pula and Rijeka in Croatia and Trieste in Italy. The flight time from Hamburg is around two hours, from Munich only 50 minutes. If you don’t bring your own car, you should ideally rent one on site to explore the peninsula. There are also bus connections between the cities.

The sea

The Croatian coast that surrounds Istria is more than 440 kilometers long. If you add the many islands, it is even 540 kilometers. Thanks to its rugged structure, numerous beautiful bays and peninsulas can be found everywhere, some lively, some lonely and perfect for those seeking peace and quiet. In addition to many rocky stretches of coast, there are also some beautiful sandy beaches, for example in Rabac, Poreč, Umag or Medulin. The bays near Vrsar and near Plomin, which reach deep inland, have an almost fjord-like character.

And no matter which part of the Istrian coast you are on: the sea water of the Adriatic Sea is crystal clear and you can swim everywhere without hesitation. Numerous beaches have been awarded the Blue Flag by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE), which is a symbol of high environmental standards and good sanitary facilities in the bathing area, among other things.

The climate

Summer in Istria is easy to bear. Especially on the coast it doesn’t get too hot with 25 to 30 degrees and there is almost always a light breeze. The sea water warms up to a comfortable 23 to 24 degrees in August. In addition, the peninsula scores with an average of 2388 hours of sunshine a year, and even the winters are mild. The average temperature in February is 6 degrees, the annual average temperature is 14 degrees Celsius.

The cities

Novigrad, Poreč, Vrsar, Rovinj: The port towns on Istria’s west coast are among the most magical places in Croatia. The centuries of Venetian rule left clear traces with their unique architectural style. Significant and well-preserved buildings from Roman times such as the amphitheater in Pula or the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its sixth-century mosaics can also be admired in Istria’s cities.

Don’t miss it: Enjoy the sunset with a sundowner on the harbor promenade of Novigrad and then walk along the historic old town wall around the peninsula.

The food

It goes without saying that in Istria one thing is served above all: freshly caught fish and seafood! An insider tip for fish fans: Take a trip to the bay of Santa Marina near Tar. Here is the small fishing hut MaDaLu owned by Mauro and his sons, who bring to the table what they have fished from the Adriatic Sea that morning – Oysters, scampi, a variety of mussels, squid and anchovies, bream, sole, all served on large platters by the master himself. There is also ice-cold white wine and an incredibly delicious chocolate ice cream cake for dessert. It’s best to put your bathing suit under your clothes and cool off in the sea from time to time.

Otherwise, the local cuisine is a mixture of Croatian, Austrian and Italian influences and has produced several star chefs in recent years. In Istria there are both chic restaurants and rustic taverns, as the country inns are called in Croatia. There is almost always a bottle of olive oil on the table, mostly from the region, and that is truly divine. After all, Istrian olive oils are among the best in the world and are specially ordered by many top chefs.

Another culinary highlight awaits in autumn: that’s when the truffle season begins in Istria. The white truffle is particularly popular. The most expensive edible mushroom in the world, which will delight gourmet fans on the peninsula from September, is generously sliced ​​over pasta or meat dishes.

The wines

When it comes to good food, of course, one thing must not be missing: the right wine to go with it. And in Istria it is conveniently available directly from the region. After the Istrian wines, which were already highly valued by the Greeks, Romans and Austrian monarchs, initially experienced a severe decline in socialist times, Istria’s wine scene is now booming again.

Some excellent and very individual wines are produced on the peninsula, mainly from the Malvazija and Teran grape varieties. While the white Malvazija goes well with almost all Istrian dishes with its fruity and often spicy note, the Teran red wines with their strong character taste best with red meat.

The Outback

And here we are at another jewel of Istria: the beautiful hinterland, where the vines grow on sun-kissed slopes and olive groves and wineries alternate with mountain villages and cypress-lined avenues.

One almost imagines oneself in Istria’s idyllic hilly landscape in Tuscany, only that things are a bit more rustic on Croatia’s most beautiful peninsula. If you want to get to know the different types of wine, you only have to follow the wine roads marked “Visnka Cesta”. Many winegrowers also offer tastings by prior arrangement, such as the Franc Arman winery in Narduči in northern Istria or, in the very south, the Trapan winery.

The artists

Anyone visiting the hinterland should not miss a detour to Grožnjan. Built in the 14th century by the Venetians on a ridge, the town was orphaned for a long time and was rediscovered by a handful of artists in the mid-1960s. They gradually renovated the old stone houses and set up their studios here.

Today Grožnjan is a charming 193-inhabitant town with galleries, handicraft shops and cozy cafés, from whose terraces you can enjoy a wide view over the Istrian landscape.

In addition to its art, Grožnjan is also known for its music: every year the summer academy of Jeunesses Musicales takes place here, when classical tones ring out through the streets of the town. For 15 years, Grožnjan has also been the scene of the three-week jazz summer. In the open air you can then listen to the saxophonist with a glass of wine and watch the sun go down behind the hilly landscape.

Incidentally, various celebrities have discovered the beauty of Istria for themselves. Anthony Hopkins owns a house near Grožnjan, and John Malkovich is also said to have bought a holiday home here.

The Activities

Mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, golf, tennis, water sports: In Istria, like everywhere else in Croatia, there are many opportunities to do sports. Both the flat coastal region and the rather hilly hinterland are suitable for cycling. It is also worthwhile for inexperienced cyclists to explore the area by bike. Many hotels offer extra rental bikes for this purpose. Some bike tours lead past the wineries and wine cellars of the region. Riding fans will find several horse farms in Istria that organize trips to the beach or to nature.

Those who like it less sporty will also find numerous activities in Istria. For example, you can take part in organized wine tours to the best winegrowers in the area, take trips by boat or ship (even to Venice!) or stroll and shop in the shopping streets of Rovinj, Pula or Poreč.

The prices

Even if traveling to Croatia is no longer as cheap as it used to be, the difference in prices for hotels, food and wine is still noticeable in Istria. Especially when you consider that Croatia attaches great importance to environmental protection, sustainable tourism and regional products. The price-performance ratio is right, and you really don’t have the feeling of being cheated anywhere.

The hospitality

What would all the beautiful places and good food be worth if the people didn’t match? The Istrians are extremely hospitable and attentive without being intrusive. Communicating with them is easy, as most of them speak good English and a surprising number of them also speak very good German, which is probably due to the many tourists from Germany and Austria. Anyone who has learned Italian can also easily converse with the residents, after all, Istria is officially bilingual.

When is the best time to visit Istria?

The beauty of the Istrian peninsula is best enjoyed in the off-season, when the hotels, beaches and towns are far less crowded than during the holiday season. Because in the high season, the number of people in Istria swells from around 200,000 to several million, and every seat on the beach, in a restaurant or in a café is highly competitive. The best travel time is in May and June. Even in autumn, when the Adriatic peninsula is all about the famous white truffles, which are served everywhere.